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"Aberdaron" The first tourist guide
(circa 1910)
A remote position at the Welsh " Lands End," or as Ptolemy called it " Promontorium Langanum amidst the most romantic and beautiful scenery in North West Wales, commanding extensive sea and mountain views, together with its many and various facilities of access by road, sea and vehicle, combine to give Aberdaron those advantages which make it a holiday centre and health resort of considerable and increasing popularity. This antique village, situated as it is facing the broad "Cardigan Bay, is in such position as to obtain the full benefit of the salubrious sea and mountain breezes. Looking landwards from the ocean, its sea-frontage of alternate gently sloping land and abruptly rocks dipping perpendicularly into the sea is picturesque to behold, (fazing southwards on a clear day from upon one of these headlands, one can discern a vast stretch of the Cardigan coast right down to that headland named after the patron saint of Wales, David, which is situated on the extreme North West of Pembrokeshire; while in the background is beheld a gradual elevation culminating in the Snowdonian Range, which formed for the Welsh of the 13th century, their last stronghold against the invading forces of King Edward 1. Railway facilities to the nearest railway town of Pwllheli, 17 miles distant, are excellent, while the delightful and exhilarating drive onwards to this secluded spot, "far from the madd'ing crowd," is most enjoyable, thus enabling the visitor to come with very little fatigue to this delightful spot of mountain and valley, stream and sea.
The following are some of the railway routes by which Pwllheli may be reached from the chief English Towns.
One -By the L & N. W. Railway via Chester and Bangor to Afonwen, thence by the Cambrian Railway to Pwllheli. On this route the following may be seen, The Menai and Conway Suspension Bridges, The Conway and Menai Tubular Bridges, and Conway and Carnarvon Castles. Two - the L- & N- W- Railway via Chester and Llandudno Junction and up the Conway and Lledr Valleys through Llanrwst, Bettws-y-coed, and Dolwyddelan with its old British Castle to Blaenau Festiniog world famous for its Slate Quarries thence down the Festiniog or Toy Railway through the romantic Maentwrog Vale, and over Madoc Embankment to Portmadoc, and thence with the Cambrian Railway through Criccieth with its quaint Castle to Pwllheli. Three -By the L. & N. W. Railway via Shrewsbury and Welshpool, thence by the Cambrian Railway along the Cardigan Coast through the pretty watering-place of Barmouth, which according to H.R.H. Princess Beatrice after her visit in 1889, as "That beautiful place which I can never forget," then onwards through Harlech with its frowning castle, to Portmadoc, and on to Pwllheli. Four -By the G. W. Railway via Shrewsbury and Ruabon through the famous
Llangollen Vale, afterwards along Bala Lake, the largest lake in England and
Wales and through to Dolgelley; and onwards to Barmouth Junction with the
Cambrian Railway, continuing the journey with the same railway line along the
coast of Cardigan Bay to Pwllheli. The first impressions of the tourist, as he
descends one of the steep hills leading to the village which nestles at their
bottom, are, that it has no pretence at all to any style, being a straggling
medley of very old-fashioned and recently built houses, with no system at all to
well-laid out streets and parapets. The substantial and plain bridge of two spans running
respectively in a westerly and southerly direction erected in 1823 over the
river Daron, from which the village has taken its name, forcibly strikes the
attention of visitors as they stroll through this holiday retreat; and further
one's curiosity is aroused as to what probable stirring scenes this primitive
village may have witnessed in times gone by, when the quaint mile-stone, at the
corner of one of the bridge spans with its antique method of recording
distances, is discerned. The village's public buildings are such that they cannot
claim any particular attention as regards their style of architecture, the
Parish Church excepted, which however has some interesting features. This
venerable edifice with its old Norman arch above the door, is justly termed
"The Cathedral of Lleyn" It consists of two naves, and is dedicated to
St. Hywyn, a British Saint of the 6th century. Tradition states that when this
old saint was Bishop of Bardsey, he established a chapel of ease on the site of
the present building, in which the pilgrims, who were on their way to the above
island to end their last days in peace and seclusion, could attend to their
devotions. To further bear proof of its antiquity, history states that when
Griffith ap Conan escaped from his chains in Chester Castle, he took sanctuary
in Aberdaron Church whose Monks further aided him to escape from the vengeance
of Hugh the Wolf, Baron of Chester, by taking him over to Ireland. Again in
1115, it is stated that Griffith ap Rhys, Prince of South Wales, also took
sanctuary here from the treachery of Griffith ap Conan, sovereign of North
Wales, who intended to deliver him into the hands of the English monarch Henry Griffith ap Conan commanded the fugitive Prince to be dragged from his
place of refuge by force, but his soldiers were unable to execute his orders
from the strenuous resistance of the clergy of the neighbourhood, who success
fully exerted themselves in defence of the principles of the church.
The young Prince with his partisans escaped by night and set forth on his
journey to the deep forest of Ystrad Towy in South Wales. In course of time,
through neglect and decay, the old church became a sad spectacle to behold, and
as much further wanton damage was done to it during the time the Circulating and
National Schools were held in one of its naves, it became necessary to erect
another church in the vicinity to conduct divine services. However it grieved
the hearts of several earnest church people to see the old church in the state
it was, and about five years ago, HEADED BY THE GENEROUS AND BENEVOLENT LADY MRS
CARREG OF CARREG PLAS, funds were raised, thereby enabling the Restoration
Committee to renovate it, as seen at the present day Within the pale of the
church, lying among the silent dead, are several graves of the illustrious
Carreg family, while here and there dotting this God's acre, may be seen several
monumental works of art with suitable inscriptions upon them, testifying to the
departed lives of those beneath. The other church just mentioned, commonly known
as the New Church, is within ten minutes walk from the village.
This edifice, a somber looking building with two towers at its western
end, was erected in 1841, but possesses not the grandeur which pertains to the
old Parish Church In this New Church, the Sunday morning divine service is
conducted, while the Sunday School and evening service are conducted within that
of St. Hywyn. The remaining public buildings, which have no pretence to any
architectural style, are well-built and commodious.
They are connected with the different Non-conformist bodies, and are
respectively Deunant and Uwchmynydd being Calvinistic Methodist; Salem and Horeb
being Wesleyan; and Cephas being Independent; while Carmel is Baptist. The
extensive alterations, carried out by the County Council in 1909 on the
elementary school at Deunant, situated at about five minutes walk from the
village-have completely changed the appearance of that establishment which now
will very favourably compare with that of any town school. Great strides have in
late years been made to comfortably accommodate and cater at very reasonable
prices any visitor that pays Aberdaron either a short or lengthy stay. Suitable
hostelries being the Ty Newydd Hotel, Ship Hotel, Bell Field Temperance, Minafon,
Dwyros (farm) and Ysgubor Bach (farm). Farmers, farm labourers and fishers are
the general occupations by which the inhabitants earn their livelihood. It is
however stated that excellent mineral wealth in the form of sett stone, jasper,
china clay and manganese is contained in the surrounding headlands; and on
several occasions, English companies have been floated to develop the same, but
the difficulty to profitably export the products raised, have caused the
ventures to be unsuccessful. Similar
tales as are contained in the Bible about the Wise men of Gotham " are
often expressed about the so called "Simple Folk of Aberdaron." Let this be
granted the district however is associated with several geniuses notably among
them being Richard Robert Jones, (Dic Aberdaron) an eccentric scholar and
linguist, whose pro-ncency in 15 languages brought him, ragged and uncultured as he was, into
distinguished company, and is buried at St. Asaph; while delightful hours will
be spent in perusing the immortal verses of such poets as Hugh Bodwrdda; Lewis
Daron, Gwilym ap Gwilym, Shion Evan Pwlldefaid, Ffynon Saint. (The Saint's Well.) This well is situated just in front of Minafon. Its
crystal waters are reckoned according to the analysis made of them by Dr.
Eraser, M.D., B.Sc., the late medical sanitary inspector for the county, as the
best and purest in the whole locality. The well is said to have received its
name from the supposition, that on its banks, the old saints, who were wending
their way onwards towards Bardsey Isle their ultimate haven of rest and refuge,
ate their frugal meals washing the same down with its sparkling waters. Cwrt. The Court.) No remains of this old mansion are now seen inasmuch
that when the present homestead, which bears the same name, was erected, the
stones of the old building were used for that purpose. However,
one cannot, but link with the present building the importance that once
pertained to the spot, wherein some remote Welsh Prince or other dealt justice
among his subjects. The hill facing the farmhouse is known as Gallows Hill,
where doubtless many a hapless, evil doer suffered the extreme penalty of the
law, while within the last decade, ruins of the prison, in which offenders were
incarcerated, were seen. The whole district around here is full of romantic
interest. The creek or opening just below is known as Porth Neudwy or Forth
Nawdd-dy (The haven of the House of Refuge). From here, the old saints sailed,
so as to reach their destination, Bardsey Isle, after having spent the previous
night or nights at a hospice near, though no ruins of this are now seen. To
support this statement, a hill near by is called Bryn Paderau (The Hill of
Prayer) whereon the brother-saints on land prayed for their safe journey, while
another spot close by, is known as Pant Wylfa (The Weeping vale) where the old
saints could no longer restrain their tears but sighed, waited and lamented for
their departed brethren. Seccar. (The Exchequer.) This is doubtless a corruption of the English word
“Exchequer." As the name implies, here were all the dues paid to
the then reigning Prince. At present, the massive butt walls only are seen, the
roof having fallen in, and which testify to the solidity our ancestors erected
their buildings. Capel Anelog. (Anelog Chapel.) No remains of this chapel of ease, which once nestled at the foot of that mountain, which bears the same name, are now seen. The secluded spot where once it stood, was doubtless an excellent retreat, to which the old saints could retire to worship their Creator in peace and solitude. In excavating around the old chapel's site, two gravestones bearing the following inscriptions were found, and which are now in the possession of Mrs. Col. Wynne Finch or Cefnamlwch.
Eglwys Fair. (St. Mary's Church.) Distinct traces of the
site of this old abbey are found in that hollow, which lies between those two
great mountains, which terminate abruptly in that racing strait between Bardsey
Isle and the mainland. When in its glory, it is stated to have been twelve yards
long by five yards wide, not including the several dormitories that pertained to
it. Doubtless, its purpose was to give hospitality to those pilgrims, who were
wending their way to that holy Isle of Bardsey, therein to end their days
peaceably. Ffynnon Fair. (St. Mary's Well.) The path, which wends its way towards this secluded well
in the rugged rocks beneath, is found below the previously named St. Mary's
Church. It is well worth visiting but extreme care must however be taken by
everyone who undertakes the perilous descent. It is said that the well has the
properties of purifying itself from all saline taste, even after the mighty
billows of the briny ocean, during stormy weather, getting mingled with its
waters. During the superstitious middle ages, it was believed, that whoever was
able to bring up a draught of water from the holy well below, right up to the
top of the headland above, would ensure the fulfillment of any wish, which the
bearer might have in his heart. Lastly in this bygone blessed and sacred spot
among nature's wilderness, it is sad to think how modern science has dispelled
the popular myth, that the several indentations seen in the surrounding rocks
have been caused, not by the hoofs of the Virgin Mary's horse when she rode it
hither and thither among the crags, but through the action of the forces of
nature. Capel Odo. (Odo's Chapel.) To all probability, the site of this old chapel erected
to the memory of an old British saint, who came from France to this country to
evangelise among our forefathers in the tenth century, is assumed to have been
in a held pertaining to Moelfre Farm at the base of Ystum mountain. The hedge
seen thereon is supposed to have been the boundary wall of the burial place,
which usually accompanied all such places of worship. As to any remains of the
old building itself, none are found, but the fact that human skeletons, within
recent times, have been dug up from the surrounding soil substantiate the
theory, that the old edifice was once situated here. Odo's Grave, Samson's Stone, and Druidical
Fortifications. After ascending the hill at the base of which Odo's
Church is supposed to have been, we come at the summit to the remains of a
double circular fortification with a deep fosse 15 yards wide, between the inner
and outer breastwork. Within the inner defence, there is a huge mound 14 yards
by 5 yards, said to be the grave of the saint, to whose memory the church at the
base of the hill was erected. Again, there may be seen here, a huge boulder
standing on end, known as Samson's stone with notches thereon, which as legend
states, were caused by the said Samson when he clutched the stone with his hand,
and threw it hither from the top of Mynydd Mawr in Uwchmynydd.
Another story, which reads prettily regarding this stone is, that
underneath it lies a pot of gold, but who-ever endeavors to gain the same will
cause a terrific thunderstorm to suddenly burst upon the unwary fortune-seeker,
thus causing him to discontinue his search. Iconoclasts have however shattered
our most cherished illusions regarding this stone by their investigations and
statements that this boulder is nothing more nor less than the remains of a
cromlech, beneath which, some brave of olden times with all his treasures are
interred.
Walks and other trips In describing the walks in this guide, the object has
not been to give a detailed description of every walk in the district as to
select the favourite outings, and to indicate in the briefest possible manner,
the best routes to the places of interest mentioned. In walking through
cultivated fields the paths should for several reasons be strictly followed and
if strangers will only keep in mind the maximum Respect other people's rights
and property as you would your own they will find the tenants most willing and
glad to contribute to their pleasure by giving any necessary information as to
the routes to be followed. The village in all instances is given as the starting
point, as all the described walks lead out of it. To the Sett Quarry, Taking the hill up past Bell Field Temperance, past the
terrace at Pensarn and keeping to the left, we soon come to the cross roads at
Minafon. Under the shelter of nestling among a clump of trees. It will repay one
to deviate by taking the left just beyond this historic house, there by enabling
one to inspect the Aberdaron Jasper Quarry Returning and resuming our way
onwards we get past the big farm of Methlan, and soon come to quite a
recently-built house, known as Penbonfc. Here
take the right, and still jogging along, we finally come to the New Church, and
getting past its front, and then taking the turn on the right a little lower
down, one soon again comes to the village. In this walk, if the visitor goes
ahead after reaching Penhont, instead of taking the right, he will come to the
district of Rhydliog, pass a chapel of the same name as well as the Church
dedicated to St. Merin, a saint of the 6th century. At length, reaching a house
and smithy on the left known as Fantol, and here, taking the highway to the
right, which leads through the village of Rhoshirwaen, we ultimately by forging
straight ahead, come at last to Aberdaron. To Ystum Hills and Ruins thereon. Our course for this stroll starts by taking the hill up
past Pretoria Temperance Hotel. In due course, the Vicarage on the left, and
Isfryn and Ty Mynydd on the right, are passed. After getting beyond these
residences to the distance of a mile, that is, a distance of two miles from the
village, and just opposite the mile-stone on the right, which indicates that
distance, turn up at the very first farm on the left, known as Moelfre. At the
base of the hill, as well as on its top for which the visitor makes his own
tracks, he can view the various relics mentioned previously in this guide; while
further, the superb scenery seen from thereon, will amply repay the trouble of
the climb. To reach the village again, one does so by the way he came thither. Pencaerau, For this walk, take the hill up past the old Parish
Church of St. Hywyn. Having gone a distance of about two miles, one will see
nestling among a clump of trees down on the left, the big mansion and farm of
Bodwrdda; which is reckoned as one of the largest farms in this end of Lleyn.
Tradition states that the present building is erected on the site of a
chapel-of-ease established by Durdan an old British Saint, who eventually ended
his days in the Monastery at Bardsey. By and by, one comes to a grocer's and
chemist's shop, which also serves as the Post Office for Pencaerau. Here, take
the left and proceeding forward one in time comes to the Calvinistic Methodist
Chapel of Saron on the right. We have now arrived on the Pwllheli main road, and
sauntering along to the left, one in due time arrives in Aberdaron again. To Rhiw Mountain and Hell's Mouth (Porth Neigwl). Follow the same road as described in the previous walk
as far as Pencaerau Post Office, then by continuing steadily on, Rhiw Mountain
at last is reached, and to reach its summit, the visitor must find the best
means for himself. Geologists affirm that this hill has once been a volcano, and
is often likened to Vesuvius. On its side, there are to be seen the remains of
an old British Fortress, while from its peak an extensive view is seen, such as
the pretty and rising watering-place of Abersoch nestling at its base, as well
as Pwllheli in the far distance. The wide inlet of the sea on the right
of the mountain is known as Forth Neigwl or Hell's Mouth from it being so
famous for its terrible storms, and is thereby compared to Scylla and Charybdis
of the ancients. To return to Aberdaron. the visitor follows the way he came
thither. To Bardsey Isle. (Ynys
Enlli). No visitor should leave Aberdaron without endeavouring
to visit this island, but which is a matter of some difficulty, for wind and
tide must be consulted, and sometimes the visitor is imprisoned there for days.
The island is fun of interest for the antiquary, it having been for many
centuries the Iona of Wales. Notable
among its several interesting features are the ruins of the mediaeval abbey of
St. Mary the handsome monument 9 feet high erected to the memory of the 20,000
saints buried in the island, but as Fuller states" It would be easier to
find graves in Bardsey for so many saints, than saints for so many graves."
The monument erected to the memory of the late Lord Newborough; the lighthouse
lit for the first time on Christmas Eve in 1821; as well as several holy wells,
the most distinguished among them being Ffynon Bariau whose waters were used by
the old saints as a mirror to tonsure their crowns, Ffynon Dalar to which all
the elves and fairies of the country gathered once yearly to hold high revels,
and Ffynon Dal Ysgwydd, at which according to legends, miracles were performed. Botanic and Geological. “ Blessed be God for flowers, for the bright, gentle,
holy thoughts they breathe, From out their odorous beauty like a wreath of
sunshine in life's hours." In the neighbourhood, the lover of Botany will
find ample opportunity for indulging his taste. The varied character of the surface, comprising sheltered
riverbanks and exposed hillsides, as well as the hedges and ditches of the
meadows and the wayside, is well calculated to yield him valuable and even rare
botanical treasures. The following short list of plants, without being by any
means exhaustive, will give an idea of what. the neighbourhood yields in this
respect, and may be of use to our readers. The gentle showers and brighter sun
of April and May bring many favourites to perfection-the primroses, cowslips and
daffodils " That come before the swallow dares and take the winds of March
with beauty." and are succeeded by the hyacinths their blue bells waving in
the soft breeze delightful to the eye; the buttercups Official & General Directory. The Parish Council. Clerk-Mr. Arthur Evans, Deunant Council School. POSTAL INFORMATION. Head Postal 5 Telegraph S Telephone Office in the
Village. Postmaster-Mr. Griffith Roberts. Mails Arrive, weekdays about 11a.m. Mails Depart, weekdays, about 2-30 p.m. No Sunday Service. Week Day Delivery of Letters commences at 11-30 a.m. Telegraph and Telephone Office, open weekdays 8 a.m. to
8 p.m. On Sundays from 8-30 to 10 a.m. Medical Practitioners. The Gentlemen of the above Profession call at the
following places once weekly, and are respectively, Dr. J. E. Griffith, of Pwllheli, on Monday at Bell Field
Temperance. Dr. Thomas, of Bottwnog on Tuesday, at Bell Field
Temperance. Dr. Evans, of Penbont, Abersoch, on Friday, at Ty Newydd
Hotel. Hotels and Temperances. Moranedd Mrs Captain Griffiths. The Ty Newydd Hotel Mr. Richard Griffiths. Bell Field Temperance Mrs. Hughes Dwyros Farm Mrs. Evans. ~~~~~~ Thanks to Mrs W Jones for lending us the booklet. |
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